Au Revoir (Until I See You Again)

Dec. 10

Last day in NZ. Last day out and about on the Excellent Adventure. I don’t even know when or where this will be posted from as in two days I’ll be back in the cold and snow – it’s sunny and 75 here. No offense to any of my loved ones, but I don’t want to go back to Wisconsin

Two days ago I went up the western side of the peninsula, yesterday I stayed in the middle, so today I will go up the eastern side. I am heading for Cathedral Cove. This spot is currently famous for being in the new Narnia movie.  As a matter of fact, many of the Narnia scenes from all three movies have taken place in NZ, just as Lord of the Rings movies have. Today I will see two of those locations. Cathedral Cove has been famous for many years though. I drive along, yes, you guessed it, more winding, scary, terrifically beautiful roads on the way up the coast. This side is newer, less historic-gold-mine-era, more sea-side-fun-living type. Interesting to see the difference.  I have decided to take a tour from the water as I have read the rock formations in this area can only be really appreciated from that vantage point. I picked a tour that takes out just a few people on a rigid inflatable and can then fit into small and shallow areas. I meet the boat on the beach and the young guy and girl ask if I’m Peggy and I say ‘Yes, people always know who I am because I’m the one who’s always alone.” And they both say “Awww.’ And I reply, “No, it’s okay, because  usually being alone gives me the best seat.” And sure enough, I find I am in the front hanging on for dear life with the best view and the most bumps; maybe not great for my back, but great for thrills. The cliffs and cave formations are phenomenal in this area. Lots of old lava flows are visible, many caves have formed from years of battering waves and tides, and tunnels can be seen through many rocks.  We are able to just squeeze into a tiny cave that opens into a huge cavern that becomes a blowhole in high tide. Way above our heads, about 100 feet, we see the sun shining through the opening of the blow hole ringed with trees and bushes. Our guide tells us the spray from the blow hole can be seen flying in the air during strong weather. Swirls, layers and pigment all combine to make interesting formations along the bank. We head into another cave with a large opening and finds scores of blue fish about 6-12 inches long swimming and jumping on the surface and almost as many huge jelly fish floating in the clear water, having been blown in by the tide. The water is so clear we can see the rocks on the bottom and the way the jelly fish propel themselves through the water. Lastly we head for Cathedral Cove which is a huge rock formation on the beach which forms a large tunnel-like arch. People are walking in and around it and even swimming around the part of it in the water. It is quite impressive and I can see why it is used in movies. We then head back to our landing spot and unload at the beach. I walk on the soft sand for a bit because it is a glorious day and I am reluctant to leave this beautiful spot with the turquoise water and warm sun on my face.

As I drive back toward Thames I know I am going right past the turn for Hot Water Beach and I know I am going by at the right time of day also. As I get to the turn I make a split second decision to go for it, who knows if I will ever get back here again. Hot Water Beach is situated over a superheated underground reservoir or river of water caused by an old volcano and this hot water literally bubbles up from the earth at low tide. So, if you go there within two hours of low tide, bring a shovel and dig a hole, supposedly hot water will fill the hole and you will have a natural spa. Seems a little farfetched to me, but our guide on the boat pointed it out to us and said there’s always at least a hundred people there and it’s best if you just let other people dig a hole and wait for them to leave and then get in their hole. He also said to let it mix with sea water to cool it a bit. I’m thinking there is no way this water is hot enough for me and why would I want to cool it off with the sea water. So I drive down to the parking lot and walk on to the beach. I don’t see anyone. I’m counting on other people digging so I have to find other people. I look down the beach farther and finally see a big crowd and realize I have found Hot Water Beach. I walk down and see the craziest scenes. People are literally laying around in little sand moats while other people are frantically digging walls of sand that are eroded by the waves as quickly as they are built. People are standing watching, some are swimming and some are like me, poaching feels of water. I put my foot in the first empty pool I come across and it is as cold as the ocean. Next pool is the same, and so is the next one. I move closer to the bigger crowds and start to feel a little warmth. As I stand outside one of the moats and the waves lap around my ankles, my feet slowly sink into the sand and as they sink I start to feel more heat. A girl near me says”Are you feeling it yet? And I say “Yes, I am. It’s so neat.” And as I kept sinking it got warmer and warmer and hotter and hotter and I had to jump out of the pocket of sand. The guide had said it comes out of the ground at 62 degrees Celsius and I thought “No Way”. But now I believe him. As I move around to different spots it becomes apparent why the water is steaming and in certain spots, bubbling. This water is coming up scalding hot. It is incredible. I move around and test different spots and can’t stand in a certain area of the ocean for more than 10 seconds before my feet felt like the soles are burnt. People are just lying in the shallows of the ocean in another spot because the waves would come in and mix with the scalding water and cover them with nice bath temperature water. I don’t have a swimming suit so I can’t lie down, but it is just a riot to be here and feel the heated water flow up and see all the people from all over the world digging in the sand like little kids so they could get a free spa bath at the ocean. I really felt like my feet are going to hurt and feel scorched for days, but as I walk back to my car they feel fine.

As I drive my winding way back to my cottage above the Thames I consider myself a pretty lucky lady for seeing the sights I’ve seen today and the beautiful weather I have had. I hate to go back because that means the trip is over and all that is left is the final phase of packing. But back I go and pack, and almost as if the sun knows it is a sad day, the sunset is rather bleak and unspectacular.  I finish my last glass of NZ wine and close my eyes for the last time on this island.

Dec.11

I’m up early and off to the airport. I never went into Auckland so this is the biggest city yet on my four week drive. About 20 kilometers from the airport I hit a real expressway. The first one and since I find out the airport is on my side of Auckland, I never see Auckland either. So I drive up and deliver a filthy, filthy hub-cap-less, scratched and really tired car to the rental place. 4,000 kilometers later I am leaving this wonderful blue Toyota that managed to get me through all those mountains and winding ocean drives. I just thank God I was never stranded anywhere remote; no tires flattened or blew out, no smashed windows, no bad car stories at all except of my own making. (Still mess up the blinkers and windshield wipers!) Of course I am also leaving a credit card payment for all the damages.

One car, but here are all the places it took me to : A perfect B&B for 3 nights in the suburbs of Christchurch, a B&B overlooking Lake Tekapo, 3 nights in a self-catering cottage in Lake Manapouri in Fiordland, 4 nights in an apartment overlooking the lake and the Remarkables mountain range in Queenstown, a night in the Bates motel in Fox Glacier, 3 nights in a self-catering cottage overlooking the ocean  in Punakaki (Pancake Rocks), a B&B for two nights overlooking mountains and sea in Kaikoura, 4 nights in the Penthouse apartment overlooking the sea and Tahunanui Beach in Nelson, a night in a motel in Wangunui, a night in a motel in Rotorua, and 4 nights in a B&B cottage overlooking the Firth of the Thames.

 And so ends an excellent adventure. Just like every other trip, just like every other traveler, I will wait in an airport, sleep fitfully on several airplanes and be welcomed home by a loving family. I’ll be jet lagged and forget  much of what happened, and within days it will all have seem like a world away, just a dream I had one night. But what a special dream, and one I will cherish as I had so many of you along with me. Thank you for riding along with me in that Toyota. I knew I was never alone. Au revoir New Zealand and friends.

P.S.

My contact e-mail is gowithpeggy@gmail.com if you want information on any of the places I stayed or visited. I would be happy to help.